Words by Sam
3 mins
James & Terri, Mount Grace Charcuterie, our bacon and gammon curers
Years ago, when I started at Field & Flower, James gave me quite a simple goal— make everything we sell as delicious as you can possibly find it in these British Isles. Granted, it was a broad remit, but my life's purpose is to find the most genuinely delicious, emotive and evocative foodstuffs in the world. It was, and still is, a privilege to take on.
I always say that the animals do most of the work in producing our incredible products, which is absolutely true. But passing meat through the reverent hands of our makers and butchers makes the most of the animals we buy, bringing the best qualities of the meat to the fore, and showing off the best of traditional breeds and agroecological farming.
When it comes to bacon, the list of people taking free-range pork, properly dry curing it by hand, hanging and smoking it over wood is a short one, that grows shorter every year. When I was looking for the bacon of my dreams a couple of years ago, it soon transpired that it might only exist in my dreams. I just couldn't find anyone doing every part the right way, so I spoke to James, an old time friend of mine up in North Yorkshire. He promptly confirmed my fear that all the characteristics I was looking for didn't exist in a product he'd come across. But as a hobby charcutier, he made it himself and could send me some to see what I thought. I never turn down a free sample and eagerly awaited the delivery.
A cross-section of our bacon, before slicing
All packaged up and ready for delivery
This bacon blew my mind. The fat was so creamy and soft, I cooked it in a cold pan like a duck breast, all of my focus on rendering the fat slowly, knowing the meat will look after itself. It didn't shrink, it didn't shrivel, it fried like a steak, and the flavour was transcendental. A mixture of oak and beech gives a rich smoke that’s balanced with sweetness. A thicker cut made it more luxurious, and the fat was so delicious that I jarred what had rendered into the pan and found excuses to sneak it into every meal I had that week— potatoes cooked off in smoked bacon fat are as delicious as they sound.
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